Montreal Sushi Crisis Part II

It's time to sound the alarm. The crisis I hoped to avoid is indeed upon us. But, and there's always a but, the situation isn't as dire as I had originally predicted. Phew. Still, the quest for sushi in Montreal that is both high in quality and affordable, remains just that – a quest.

The reason we can relax a tad and avoid an Armageddon scenario is thanks to a little place on Parc Ave. called Bistro Isakaya. My parents found out about Isakaya through their friends at La Mer, who informed them the restaurant's Japanese born sushi chef/owner purchases only the best. Decor-wise, Isakaya isn't particularly exciting on the eyes and the service is good, not great. But if the sashimi is fresh, I'm a happy camper and it's definitely fresh here. I'm not sure when they have it, but if king salmon sashimi happens to be available, you must try it. Plus, the maki rolls are simple – i.e. none of that mango, curry, cream cheese crap that screams of inauthenticity. My favourite is the Isakaya roll featuring salmon, crab meat, white fish, tobiko and cucumber, however, classics like the spider with soft shell crab, salmon kamikaze and California are also excellent. And though I'm not the biggest lobster fan, my friends who tried Isakaya's lobster roll had nothing but positive accolades for it.

Maki and sashimi at Bistro Isakaya 

Appetizer wise, the dishes are also simple yet tasty. Standout apps include the tuna cocktail and the ultra light fried eggplant in bonito broth. Isakaya also does lunch and it's cheap, cheap cheap which is why I'll let it slide that there aren't plenty of options to choose from. Oh, and speaking of cheap, considering the quality of the fish, a dinner for one at Isakya without alcohol can easily cost under $35. Are you out the door and in the car yet?

Fried eggplant in bonito broth at Bistro Isakaya

But, oh, there it is again, I still think Bishoku in its heyday (before new management and chefs took over) was better than Isakaya. The freshness factor is virtually equal at both, however, I simply preferred Bishoku's slightly more inventive appetizers, maki rolls and the service was undoubtedly superior. I do think liking one over the other comes down to a matter of tastes and we all know how tastes can vary, so I'll let you decide for yourselves. This is intended for the people who knew Bishoku before the "changes" because I don't suggest you go there now. Sadly, it hasn't gotten better. Let's leave it at that because it's a sensitive subject.

I also returned to 5 Saisons which reopened late September after a fire related closing. 5 Saisons delivers (within the NDG/Westmount areas), so there's a big brownie point right there. It's also a BYOB which merits at least 3 brownie points if not more. The restaurant's fare ranks quite well on the freshness and taste scale, but I'm not exaggerating when I say it wasn't easy finding maki rolls that weren't "contaminated" with fruits or an abundance of tempura flakes. I find that extremely frustrating, albeit I am an easily frustrated gal. What's more, 5 Saisons is no cheaper than Isakaya, so unless I'm ordering takeout and need lots of wine to go with my sushi (hey, somedays can be really stressful), then I'm dragging my butt to Parc Ave.

The Te Quiero roll at 5 Saisons with spicy tuna, crispy tempura, cooked shrimp and avocado rolled in a soya bean leaf was too heavy on the sauce and tempura. 

Clearly a woman on a mission, I went to Sushi Yu Mi on Sherbrooke West as well. It's an adorable little spot that's designed mainly for takeout orders. The staff was friendly and my order of maki rolls was completed quickly and the cost was very reasonable. Though I can't put my finger on exactly what it was, I can say that something felt just slightly off. Don't get me wrong, it was good and I'd like to give it a second chance, yet there was a taste to certain rolls that just didn't jive with my palette.

Kaizen was another place I visited on my search for sushi greatness only to find sushi suckiness of the highest degree. It was bad, and when I say bad I mean BAD as in awful, as in STAY THE HELL AWAY. Are we clear? My intention isn't to insult anyone, but I feel fortunate to have walked out of there without food poisoning because the fish was the furthest thing from fresh. It's a shame because the service was top notch, the interior is beautiful and spacious, and Kaizen has one of the best wine lists in town. To be honest, it's also too expensive to even be on this list since my search is about quality and affordability, but I had to try it. I left Kaizen feeling robbed – it's totally overpriced, especially when you factor in the yuckiness. If you're willing to spend on sushi, go to Jun I. I raved about it in Montreal Sushi Crisis Part I and I have been back several times since and each meal was better than the last. Word of advice: if there's a roll of the month, do yourself a favor and order it – you won't regret it.

The seaweed salad was the only dish I enjoyed at Kaizen. 

Unfortunately, I didn't try Oishii Sushi, nor did I revisit Shodan or Tri Express. After all, I was beginning to fear mercury poisoning. Based on my memories, Shodan is a good bet, although for the price I suggest Jun I. As for Tri Express, I've only been once and it was at least five years ago. I do recall a superb meal that perhaps was a little too avant garde for me back then, though let me assure you this foodie has grown up. Okay so maybe I scared you a little too much at first, but I had to get your attention somehow. So there you have it my friends, now go and eat some sushi and share your thoughts with me.

The sashimi appetizer at Jun I

Must try: Moishes' three hours to midnight menu

My favourite steakhouse happens to be a small chain in the States called STK. I've been to the one in South Beach and Manhattan, and the quality of the meat itself and its preparation blew me away. I'm mentioning STK here because a) it has become the gold standard by which I measure all other steaks and b) the restaurant's catchphrase is "not your daddy's steakhouse". In fact, it's one of those places that's as much about the "scene" as it is about the cuisine. Moishes, on the other hand, used to be a steakhouse that was very much your daddy's – or even granddaddy's – steakhouse. The keywords, however, being "used to be", because when I dined there a couple of weeks ago on a Friday night, such was not the case. Indeed, Moishes' dining room received a gorgeous facelift several months back, and though the the new room still has elements of an old-world steakhouse (the place has been around since 1938!) it now feels less stuffy and more "fresh". I've got to give them major credit for this as it would've been a pity to see such a storied Montreal establishment become modernized to the point of losing all touch with its roots.

Not settling on revamping the decor alone, Moishes' renaissance extended to its menu, which now includes a 3 hours to midnight special. For the sum of $25, one can indulge in an appetizer, a main course and a coffee or tea. Pretty good, eh? And indulge we did – starting with the complimentary coleslaw and crunchier than crunchy pickles for which the eatery is well known for. To start, we sampled the organic salmon tartar and a house salad. Our other options were chopped liver (not a fan) and Caesar salad (too heavy with meat). The portions were on the smaller side and not particularly awe-inducing, but the tartar was light, fresh and well seasoned. Similar adjectives can be used to describe the house salad, but honestly, what more can you really expect from a house salad?

The stuff legends are made of – Moishes' pickles and coleslaw, and lots of butter.

Perennial favourite salmon tartar was light, fresh and well seasoned

Coming off my experience with Milos' limited 10 p.m. special, I was pleasantly surprised by how many main course options there were at Moishes – 12 – and a whole hour earlier! I was also pleased to see so many people taking advantage of this incredible deal. Upon walking in at 9 p.m., my friends and I witnessed a whole slew of golden agers filing out, only to be replaced with a younger crowd – a restaurant version of changing of the guard if you will. Okay, back to food... I opted for the filet mignon, as did my friend, while our other friend ordered the famous chicken breast. My steak paled in comparison with STK's juicy and tender filet mignon, but it was good nonetheless. And, hey, for $25 bucks... I'll know for next time to order it medium-rare, since medium was a little too well done for my liking. Meanwhile, my friend's chicken was very juicy and flavourful. To accompany our mains, we had the option of choosing either a Montecarlo potato which is basically mashed potatoes placed in a baked potato shell with chives and lots of yummy seasoning, or french fries. The fluffy Monte Carlo is pure-potato bliss, while the fries were lackluster and definitely needed more seasoning and crunch.

Petit Filet. Steak lovers can get steak frites, rib steak or kobe burger too

You guessed it – chicken! 

Amazing Monte Carlo potato and ho-hum fries. 

By the end of the meal we were beyond stuffed; it goes without saying the pickles and coleslaw didn't help matters. We were also totally impressed by how much food the special entailed, and the quality of the service. Our waiter was an older gentlemen who was super attentive, professional and polite. It seemed as though our presence was genuinely valued and we weren't just the "late night" crowd. This is key to making these types of deals work, and explains why Lemeac, and now Moishes are packed, while Milos' special isn't filling the house. Needless to say, I'll be back – appetite in tow.

Mixed emotions: Milos 10 p.m. "Late Evening" menu

Let's face it, the days of eating a gourmet meal for $20 or less are about as over as Lindsay Lohan's acting career. Therefore, when a venerable Montreal fine dining institution like Milos offers you a three course late evening menu (10p.m.-12:00a.m.) for $20.11 – you make a run for it, pumps in tow. I have had the good fortune of eating off of Milos' a la carte menu, and the Greek eaterie has repeatedly blown me away with their fresh seafood dishes, many of which have been flown in from Greece, as well as their Greek feta cheese, olive oil, and a baklava that makes me want to break out in song à la Glee. It goes without saying that a meal here can set you back a pretty penny.

Last Saturday, a good friend and I decided it was finally time to suppress our hunger till 10:00p.m. (on the dot) and try Milos' late evening menu. Another friend had warned me one of the problems with eating at Milos at that hour is the atmosphere, since the big crowds begin to fizzle out and there's the sense waiters are trying to rush you so they can finish their shifts. When we first arrived, the restaurant was full, although I will say by the time we were finished at 11:30, it was only about 1/3 empty. Not bad. Our waiter was friendly, swift without making us feel hurried, and all-around professional. I assume the restaurant's reasons for offering this deal are not to give back to the community and feed the "needy", but to make money and attract a young cliental, and therefore waiters should never make late night patrons feel like second class citizens, as was the case in my friend's situation.

Service and atmosphere aside, what left me with mixed emotions was the food. There are three starter options and we chose to share a tomato salad with feta, olives and olive oil (a.k.a. Greek salad) and a meze platter with different "dips", stuffed vine leaves and pita bread. The salad arrived and was 1/3 of the size of their regular priced tomato salad. I took a deep breath and reminded myself my meal was costing $20.11, whereas normally just one tomato salad costs $25. Still, I couldn't help but be annoyed the feta came crumbled and there was so little of it, rather than the sizeable chunks that constitute a traditional Greek salad. Yet, what little there was of it tasted incredible. Meanwhile the meze platter was snooze-worthy, with only the small dollop of tzatziki eliciting any reaction. Should've tried the organic salmon sashimi instead.

Tomato salad, part of Milos' "Late Evening" menu.

Next we chose among four options and ordered a dorade flown in from the Greek island of Kefalonia. The portion size of the flaky white fish was ideal for us girls (we had also loaded up on snacks at my house first), and though it was a little on the dry side, it still ranks as one of the best fish I've eaten in Montreal. Then came the biggest dissapointment: they were out of baklava. In case you missed that, OUT OF BAKLAVA. One more time for dramatic impact: OUT OF BAKLAVA. Our faces were priceless when we heard the news. When your meal consists of three courses and three pretty small courses at that, dessert plays a BIG role. The waiter was nice enough to offer us an almond and pear tarte that's normally not part of the late evening menu because he could sense tears welling up at the thought of settling for ice cream, or worse – sorbet. It was actually quite tasty, but baklava it was not. I found this inexcusable for such a high-end eaterie. They've been in this business a long time and they've had this menu for a couple of years and should know how much baklava to keep around. Cue foot stomping.

The Meze Platter was BORING

With a glass of white wine, tax and tip, my meal cost $41.00 – a measly sum when you consider how much a regular meal costs at Milos and the calibre of ingredients used. That said, if Milos wants this special to draw in crowds of hip young people like Lemeac's 10p.m. special which is $25 for an appetizer and main – they need to ensure service is consistently top-notch, baklava is ALWAYS available and they really ought to add more pizzaz to their appetizers. I would start by serving a "real" chunk of feta, none of this crumbling nonsense.

Pre-meal spread arranged by yours truly. 

My favourite things: ça va de soi sweaters and basics

Despite what we might say, we all pick favourites, and when it comes to sweaters and basics, my heart belongs to one brand and one brand only: ça va de soi. The Montreal-based company has been making superior quality knits since 1972, but I only caught wind of it six years ago when I fell in love with a grey cashmere cardigan at James in Westmount. A blend of cashmere, extra fine merino wool and silk, I stalked this sweater until it went 50 per cent off, and even then I couldn't believe I was shelling out $160 for a sweater! Needless to say, it was one of the best purchases I've ever made because after wearing it all these years it has hardly pilled and remains impossibly soft.

Ça va de soi now has a stand-alone boutique in Ottawa and on Laurier Ave., as well as a store within a store at Ogilvy's in Montreal. A major part of why the clothes stand the test of time, is the label's  "slow wear" philosophy. Their ethos is to use ethical practices to source the best quality fibers from around the world (Scottish wool, Egyptian Cotton, Italian silk etc.), and then to have master spinners turn the raw materials into classic designs. While most of the weaving is done in China, some garments are made in Italy.

Attention is paid to every detail, including the buttons, which are always made from natural materials: mother-of-pearl, oyster, scallop, clam, wood, nutshells etc. Although new additions are made each season, the bulk of the collection remains unchanged year after year. And while individual retailers can put ça va de soi items on sale, you'll never find the brand's items being discounted at its stores – a testament to its timeless apparel.

Come fall, I like to treat myself to two new sweaters, and since each one is more luxurious than the next and they all fit so well – it's not an easy decision. This season, I finally settled on an oatmeal cable-knit sweater in a super fine wool ($200), and a plum boyfriend sweater that's 50 per cent cashmere and 50 percent super fine merino wool ($270). I like that the latter is baggy enough that I can fit a button-down blouse underneath, while cable-knit is huge this season and the sweater will go perfectly with my flared J-brands. When wool is ultra fine, it's not in the least bit itchy, and it's made so as to ensure you're never too hot or too cold by adapting to the temperature of your body and the environment.

Plum boyfriend sweater paired with Current Elliott denim shirt

And because I couldn't resist, I ended up also purchasing a thin black turtle-neck made with Egyptian Mako cotton and eight per cent lycra for layering ($75). Ça va de soi's cotton is seriously bullet-proof. Egyptian cotton is undoubtedly the world's finest and the technique for growing it hasn't changed in centuries. If conditions are unfavorable the soil is left fallow, and the cotton is still meticulously picked by hand.

Cable-knit sweater with orange/red Equipment blouse underneath

A new edition to the ça va de soi family this season is a multi-purpose shawl. Available in a range of colours, it's made by Tuscan weavers using top of the line merino wool. The second I saw it I envisioned the myriad ways I could wear it (over a summer dress, wrapped around my neck with a leather jacket, as a blanket etc.) and have been lusting over the $240 piece of heaven ever since. It goes without saying my mother had to use a bit of force to separate us. Just putting it out there: my birthday is Nov. 10;)

Disclosure: None of the brands endorsed on this blog are funding me in any way, so my opinion isn't influenced by anyone but myself. On second thought, it would be nice to get me a free sweater...

Val, where do I go for a casual, inexpensive, but delicious dinner on a weeknight in Montreal?

I'm not quite sure how it happened, but somehow I've become the person my friends and family call/text/skype to ask questions that always begin with: "Val, where do I . . ." Maybe it's because I'm often either extolling the virtues of a new eatery, boutique, fitness class, bikini waxer etc., or conversely, condemning one thing of another. Basically, I'm all about spreading the word – something my likely annoyed Twitter followers can attest to. Nevertheless, for the first weekly edition of "Val, where do I . . .", the question is: where do I go for a casual, inexpensive, but delicious dinner on a weeknight in Montreal? Below are my top 5 picks in no particular order.

Hwang Kum
5908 Sherbrooke St. W., (at Clifton Ave.,), 514-487-1712, major cards accepted.
The best Korean I've had in the city to-date, Hwang Kum serves up classic dishes in a fuss-free environment. Try: Kimchi pancake, beef bibimbap, cold black noodles and barbequed marinated beef.

Perennial favourite bibimbap

Kaza Maza
4629 Parc Ave., 514-844-6292, major cards accepted.
Readers of Val's Bites may recall the spat I got into with the owner concerning an overly smokey baba ganoush, however, said dish is the only thing I've tried at Kaza Maza that I didn't positively adore. Plus, this Syrian and Lebanese restaurant features live music most nights of the week, and they do brunch too! Try: fattoush, hummus, mutabbal (a puree of roasted beets that is an absolute MUST), fried cheese cigars, lamb shank "friki".

The incomparable mutabbal at Kaza Maza 

Bistro Isakaya
3469 Parc Ave., 514-845-8226, major cards accepted.
While the interior of this Japanese restaurant is nothing to get excited about, the food, particularly the fresher than fresh fish – is song and dance worthy. Rest assured I'll give you the full scoop in Montreal Sushi Crisis Part II. Try: tuna cocktail, seaweed salad, Age-Nasu (fried eggplant in bonito broth), wild salmon sashimi, toro sashimi, Isakaya roll, soft shell crab roll, kamikaze roll.

Tuna cocktail at Isakaya 

Kazu
1862 Ste. Catherine St. W., 514-937-2333, cash and debit only. 
The line outside doesn't lie: Kazu rocks. It's so good in fact, you'll forgot you're practically sitting on top of your neighbour in this squishy Japanese pub, where there's always something new and unusual to savour. Try: Beef Carpaccio, tuna and salmon bowl.

Pizzeria Magpie
16 Maguire St., 514-507-2900, major cards accepted.
A quadruple threat offering a cozy, but decidedly cool atmosphere, friendly service, affordable prices, and pizza from a wood burning oven that is sure to elicit bizarre, euphoric sounds. Meanwhile, carnivores can get their meat-on thanks to an on-site meat locker displaying house-cured charcuterie. Try: artichoke, spinach, Fontina and Parmesan cheese pizza; caramelized onion, black olive, ricotta and oregano pizza.

5 More Places that fit the bill: Laurier Gordon Ramsay, Icehouse, Maison India, Pizzeria Napoletana and Pho Lien

Picture says it all. 

Color By NUDA pulls out all the stops to mark nine years of great hair

A smart individual once said “hair is everything”, and those of us who have had a great haircut, or worse – a terrible chop, know this couldn't be more true. Fortunately, for the last couple of years, I have been getting excellent haircuts and blowdrys at Color By NUDA. Today, the acclaimed Montreal hair salon and spa celebrates its ninth anniversary with a major bash that will feature a live DJ, food provided by local favourites Leméac and Bice, makeup demonstrations from a renowned international makeup artist with his own line of luxury brushes, as well as the presentation of a unique brand of “champagne vodka” that has yet to become available in Canada. The evening's main attraction, however, is the launch of an art book showcasing the works of famous fashion photographers (Maude Arseneault, Brian Ypperciel, Donat, Richard Bernardin and Max Abadian) whose images have graced the pages of publications like Elle and FASHION. Days before the party, I sat down with my amazing hairdresser a.k.a. NUDA owner and senior stylist Leroy Williams, to talk about the big event, his twenty plus years in the business, and everything else hair related.

NUDA owner and senior stylist Leroy Williams in action

It seems a little strange celebrating a nine year anniversary as opposed to a ten year anniversary. Why this party now?

It's actually a re-launch of the salon based on the fact that there was construction in front of the door for six months. We want to re-promote the salon. We still don't have the same voice we had on Greene Ave. (the salon moved to the Golden Square Mile three years ago), in the sense that a lot of people here aren't aware of who we are. They see us but they don't know our philosophy, or how good we are. It's sort of like a fresh start for us. We renovated the salon, redid the floors and sinks, and invested some more money. This party is a really huge investment for us. It's a re-launch to get people to know we are here, to know that we are here to stay, and that we survived the worst, and that our philosophy is still the same. It's also our way of saying thank you to the customers that have stuck with us throughout the construction and the move from Greene Ave., because without them we wouldn't have been able to make it to nine years.

What made you decide to make the move from Greene Ave. to the Golden Square Mile?

We were there for six years and had plateaud. We also wanted a ground floor location. There are some negatives and positives. On Greene we had really strong high end customer base, but the problem was that there are so many salons in a small area that at a certain point we had plateaud. Everyone was kind of split sharing the same customer. Hiring stylists became difficult and growing our customer base became difficult, so we had to think about how we want to grow the salon for the next 10-15 years. We did the research and found out there's a lot going on here; there's a lot more traffic. It has worked to our advantage because we've managed to increase our client base and have been able to attract more stylists since we've been here. But then the construction happened...

How is the art book connected to the re-launch of the salon?

The book is important because it's part of the look and inspiration for the salon. It will help us build up our brand by letting people see who we are and what we're about. We are a fashion salon and our history is rooted in fashion and the influence of fashion stylists, makeup artists, hairdressers and photographers who we work with on photo shoots, runway shows, fashion campaigns etc. We've been working on the book for the last three months. I did ninety per cent of the hair and makeup, and the photographers got carte blanche in doing work that would represent them. Getting these five photographers together was extremely complicated; they're extremely busy and it's the first time that any publication will feature these five people under one umbrella.

As a salon that's greatly influenced by fashion, do you think that customers should cut/style their hair according to the latest trends?

No. I believe that as hairdressers we should listen to our customers and try to find ways to communicate to them what the latest trends are while still respecting their ideals. We need to keep up with trends so we can make recommendations and keep our customers looking up-to-date, but things like budget, lifestyle, maintenance, and facial shape are also important.

On the subject of trends, what styles are we seeing for men and women right now?

One of the trends that I like that I'm seeing people feel excited about is longer hair for men. We had the shorter hair trend where the sides are super short and the top is longer, but now we're seeing men are growing their hair and it's more pushed back with greater movement. The business men are different from the younger men. Business men want to come in and get out, and they want things that are conducive to their lifestyle and work. A lawyer wants to look like a lawyer.

For women now, think of Jennifer Aniston, who recently went from a longer to shorter haircut and toned down her colour. We were doing a lot of very blond blonds, whereas now we're doing more mixed tones with a bit of golden blond and a shorter length to tone it down a bit. The look is also more square with less layers.

So you started to talk about colour and the salon is called Color By NUDA. How important a role does colour play in what you do?

Colour is the anchor for everything we do. You rarely find anyone, with the exception of maybe yourself, who has no colour in their hair. But there are different degrees of colour. There's colour that's a rinse and adds shine to the hair. Hair that has no colour or rinse tends to look more opaque; it's not shiny, it's more matte, whereas a rinse can add more shine because it reflects the light better. We've recognized that colour is an important part of the salon and that it marries very well with the cut. And it should because most people that come in to cut their hair should equally colour their hair. It's the biggest point of sales for us – it's huge.

From your own experience, how has the hairdressing business changed since you opened NUDA nine years ago, or since you first started working in the industry 20 years ago?

There are a lot more hairstylists and a lot more salons are popping up. There are many more free agents and a lot more people who are unwilling to work on teams so they're opening their own salons. Hair salons and spas used to be married together, now you have three businesses: you have spas, you have hair salons, and you have hair salons with spas. We are the third.

But NUDA isn't a full service spa...

That will be part of our decision making process for the next 5-10 years. What services do we add on to make the salon competitive? Do we reduce prices? Do we do more promotion? Do we add on botox? Do we add body wraps? We had a shower, we took it out, do we put it back in? Do we try to get the space upstairs? These are some ideas that we're working with.

Would you say it's a more competitive climate in Montreal right now than nine years ago?

Way more. Montreal is turning into a huge discount market. With the net now, there are lots of discounts being offered. The net is the guru now of information. People are Googling instead of calling up salons to get information. It's about understanding how the information is travelling and to get the information out to our customers, so engaging in things like social media and so on will be important for us moving forward.

Do you think people generally care more about price than the quality of the cut?

When we were on Greene Ave. we were anchored by people that cared more about reputation and the place they went to. Being around here, we're seeing people who care about price as well as quality. It's about finding a tricky balance where we don't sell ourselves short by increasing our quality and decreasing our prices. We have to be careful because once you go that route it's very difficult to come back. We don't want to do fast growth, we want to do steady growth and long term growth. That said, on Greene we had a unilaterally high end price range, but now we have a junior stylist and an intermediary stylist. The price you pay comes with the experience that you're getting. We've opened our price point to accept a different customer base. What we've learned in the last nine years is we have to change with the ever-changing market place.

How did you get into hair styling? Did you always feel you had a knack for hair?

No. I had an artistic constitution, but to be honest my brother was a stronger artist than I was. He would sketch freehand very well from memory and I used to copy great. When i was younger I would pull out pictures from magazines and put them up in my room or in frames. I kind of thought I would've navigated towards fashion styling, but at 21 I took a summer job at a salon and it allowed me to assist someone that I really admired. I was washing hair, passing the broom – the dirty jobs for two years, and I loved it. I worked with one of the top stylists in the city by pure accident. He passed away from AIDS, but while I worked with him, my career mimicked his career because he would do fashion shoots, hair and makeup in the salon, out of the salon, he was always travelling. He made a great living from it. My biggest concern was that I wouldn't be able to make a living out of it; I was studying psychology at the time. It's not something I chose, it's something I happened to fall into. I don't think I'm good at it, I think I'm always trying to be better at it. My philosophy is when you get something, that's when you should stop doing it. You need to be a tough critic of yourself.

What's your favourite and least favourite part of your job?

The running a business aspect is my least favourite, and since we're a small business it's very hands-on. What comes to mind as my favourite is doing your hair and makeup for your party. That was one of my favourite moments. I've got moments like that, that kind of work really well. You love the customer, they come with a great idea, they have the dress, and you're motivated, and it comes together and works out really well. Then the person comes back and says it was great and you're like okay, now I understand why I do it. Those moments are few and far between. Then you have moments when you're late and the customer's pissed off, and your brain's on something else and you make a mistake. That happens and more attention is called to those things then when a moment goes right. Very few people call you back and say it was great.

But if they come back that means it was great, no?

The advantage and disadvantage of this business is you're only as good as your last work – your history has no relevance. You tend to think that when a customer makes a decision she'll factor in the 10 years of good service, but you piss her off in the right way once and her decision won't be based on the history but on the last time you pissed her off.

Are there any hairdressers that inspire you?

There are a ton of people that I research. Orlando Pita is one of my favourites because he takes hair to another level. It's all organic for him, it's painting, it's sculpting, it's creating. This particular guy is always trying to push the envelope and he's a strong, strong influence in the marketplace. Hair is a bit like fashion in the sense that some key guys put forth trends and then it gets diffused in the marketplace, or it gets tagged onto the fashion shows, and that gets diffused in the media and from there that's where we take our inspiration.

For contact information, services and prices visit www.nuda-online.com

I Love Lawrence

Not one to keep my mouth shut when a good thing comes along (unless it's a designer sample sale and we're the same size), I've decided to tell you just how much I enjoyed my meal at Lawrence Friday night. I had been once before in February, shortly after it had opened, and I was thoroughly impressed. To make sure it wasn't just the novelty talking and Lawrence is indeed the real deal, and cuz I was craving some luxurious comfort food, I returned.

One of my favourite dishes EVER is fried soft shell crab. When it's done right, like at Milos, it's perfection, but unfortunately for me it often comes out tasting overly chewy, bland, or worse – soapy (strange, but true). At Lawrence, the fried soft shell crab was paired with radish and aioli ($15), a combination that sounded somewhat odd, but was everything but. The crunchiness of the radish played up the crunchiness of the scrumptious crab, while the zesty aioli added the exclamation point. The heirloom tomato, bread, and freshly marinated anchovy salad ($12) was equally memorable. I always say (yes, I quote myself), that there's nothing better than a good tomato, and nothing worse than a bad tomato, and this salad was a case of GREAT tomato. 

Soft shell crab with radish and aioli

As my main I had a sirloin steak with turnips, dandelions and parsley ($28). Perfectly cooked, the meat was top notch. The turnips were a nice touch, and I liked how the parsley was served as a puree atop the steak. I did not, however, care for the tough dandelions – not worth the chewing effort. My friend also praised her roast striped bass accompanied by bass, leeks, carrots and smoked sausage ($25). Her comment about Lawrence providing a much needed breath of fresh air to the salmon tartar/beet and goat cheese salad laden Montreal restaurant scene, was also spot on. And that's not having tried the grilled ox tongue (FYI the menu changes daily and is posted on Twitter)! For dessert, we opted for the strawberry and rhubarb shortcake ($7), that definitely goes down as one of the best I've ever devoured. 

Sirloin steak with turnips, parsley and dandelions

Last, but not least, I have to applaud Lawrence for nailing the gourmet food in a laid-back, unpretentious environment combo with such aplomb. Reminded me of another great restaurant, Tuck Shop. And kudos to the staff for treating me, and my equally young looking friend just as well as the more “adult” looking table beside ours. Can't wait to try their brunch! 

Strawberry and rhubarb shortcake. Don't you love the homey plates? 

Delicious downtown vegan resto is organic too

Success: I've found the perfect downtown Montreal lunch spot. It's a shame it's taken me this long, however, as La Panthère Verte, a casual, organic vegen resto, has been under my nose since it opened right next to Crudessence on Mackay St., almost a year ago (their other location is on St. Viateur). I knew of its existence of course, but I made the rookie mistake of assuming it wasn't worth trying since it always appeared empty, whereas next door, people were pilling in for overpriced, albeit inventive and generally tasty, raw, vegan fare. I also knew Panthère Verte's speciality is falafel, and as fellow falafel fiends will tell you, a craving for fried chickpea balls is tough to quell. So there I was last Friday afternoon, and Tuesday afternoon...

The healthy man's falafel 

For starters, the place was packed and I mean PACKED. Nevertheless, the small staff managed to be quick and friendly; taking people's orders and calling out their name's as their food emerged beautifully arranged from the open kitchen. The cashier taking orders was cute as a button, and seemed to be on a first name basis with the clients (regulars are always a good sign!). Plopping myself on a wooden chair, at a table designed to look like a tree-trunk (Panthère Verte's decor is Tarzan chic), I bit into my whole-wheat falafel pita ($5.99). Unlike the ubiquitous fast-food version of this dish, this one tasted healthy. I attribute this to the crispy, yet lightly fried falafal balls, as well as to the pita's fillings: pickles, cucumber, shredded lettuce, carrots and alfalfa sprouts (a.k.a. stuff that's good for you). No wonder owner Haim Shoham was recently quoted in The Gazette saying falafal is his passion. And who would've thought opting to add a salad to my pita (+$5), would be the best decision I've made in a LONG time. Not only did it get me an organic sparkling lemonade (sweet!), but the salad was no ordinary salad. A who's who of healthy ingredients gathered to make this dish, that included: carrot, quinoa, beets, sunflower seeds, arugula, asparagus, chickpeas, red and yellow peppers, sweet potato and cauliflower (I'm exhausted already). Topped with a zesty house dressing, this was the real deal.

The salad that has EVERYTHING

Much like the best things in life, Panthère Verte's menu is simple. Apart from the falafel pita and salad, there's a daily soup, a dish of the day, a hummus plate, a tofu BBQ burger, a tempeh burger and a veggie burger. There's also a plethora of fresh smoothies and juices (beet, carrot, apple and ginger anyone?). On Tuesday, the daily dish happened to be one of my all-time favs: chilli with brown rice ($10). Served with a green salad and pita, this was healthy comfort food at its finest.

At Panthère Verte, all the ingredients are organic, and when possible local. Plus, recycling and composting is a big part of their ethos, and there are designated slots for both. If you work, live or go to school in the area, you have no excuse not to try this spot and if you don't – it's worth the trip.

Side note: Panthère Verte is open weekdays till 9:00 p.m., so it can be a great dinner option too. On Saturday's they're open till 5:00 p.m. and Sundays they're closed.  

Chille

A crack at Fabergé

It saddens me that my second post is pessimistic yet again, but why blog if you can’t be brutally honest? Today’s disappointment took place at Fabergé, a hip breakfast spot in the Mile-End that received top marks from me a little less than a year ago in Val’s Bites. My sister had bought two Living Social coupons there, and today we went to redeem the second one. She used the first one a few weeks ago, and left feeling pretty let down given my extensive praise of the place. Thinking it was just an “off day”, she brought me along today.

Alas, a fluke it was not. Perhaps they felt they didn’t have to “try” with us because we disclosed our coupon immediately and were getting our lunch half off? That, however, completely defeats the purpose of agreeing to partner with a coupon site, since the goal is to gain repeat customers who will recommend your business to all of their friends, or better yet ­– will write positively about it online.

The first alarm bell went off when I was informed they were out of grapefruits. Seriously? You serve breakfast and breakfast only, every day till 4 p.m. The second bell went up several decibels, when my egg-white omelet with spinach, chopped tomatoes and feta, appeared as a regular omelet with spinach, caramelized onions, feta and yellow peppers. Did I mention the restaurant was virtually empty? Meanwhile, the accompanying potatoes were undercooked and covered in paprika. Paprika, really? Across the table, my sister’s grilled-cheese was lacking in the “grilled” department, and either her French fries looked unappetizing, or I’ve suddenly developed self-control. Something tells me it’s the former. A Fabergé egg is something truly special, but today the restaurant failed to live up to its namesake. Hopefully the team will get crackin’ and Fabergé’s luster will be restored. 

Faberge's house speciality: Eggs In a Nest featuring two fried eggs nestled in a hole carved out of baked cheese bread. (Taken October '10 when everything was delish) 

Montreal Sushi Crisis Part I

For my inaugural blog post, I have decided to address a cause that’s dear to my heart – and stomach: the Montreal Sushi Crisis. The problem is as follows: our gourmet city is severely lacking in sushi that is both high in quality and affordable. This befuddles me, as there is no shortage of excellent chefs and fresh seafood in town. Anyone heard of La Mer Fish Market? The optimist in me wants to believe such a calamity can in fact be averted, and would like to affix a “pending” in front of “Montreal”, but recent experiences have been ominous.

Before I outline evidence to support my crisis theory, I would like to point out that Montreal has been blessed with at least one (to my knowledge) phenomenal Japanese/sushi restaurant. Situated on swanky Laurier St., Jun I’s selection of sushi, sashimi, appetizers and mains is as good – if not better – than some of New York’s finest establishments like Nobu, Sushi of Gari and Sushi Yasuda. The sashimi for two appetizer featuring five varieties of raw fish (including organic salmon!), each accompanied by a complimentary sauce, is edible gold thanks to the freshness of the fish and the flavour intense sauces. And it’s a crime to go without trying the Funny Maki roll. I don’t know if it’s the special sauce atop the roll, the fact it’s served warm, the combination of fried red tuna, green onion, avocado, white fish, and spicy salmon, or all the above (likely) – but the sensation is best described as a party in your mouth. Plus, the service is flawless and the ambiance casual with a drop of up-scale, making it the perfect destination for a date, Saturday night, or a birthday celebration. I write this partly because Jun I doesn’t exactly fall into the affordable category. Therefore, while it’s amazing, it does little to solve the dilemma at hand. To illustrate, five pieces of soft shell crab maki will set you back $14, while at Mikado up the street, it’s $8.60 for four pieces. 

The one and only Funny Maki roll at Jun I

Speaking of Mikado, I used to be a fan of their Monkland and Laurier locations (I have yet to try their St. Denis outlet), but the last two times I’ve eaten at both were major disappointments. If the raw fish in a maki roll lacks that ineffable fresh taste, then no amount of “exotic” fruits, tempura flakes, or sauce can salvage it, and the same goes without saying for sushi/sashimi. What’s more, Mikado falls on the pricier side of the affordability scale, meaning there is no excuse for lackluster fish.

Sho-dan on Metcalfe is in a similar price bracket as Mikado, and while I haven’t been in over a year (things change quickly in the restaurant world), I don’t remember being particularly impressed with the fare, nor the bill at the end. Once again, the optimist in me wants to give Shodan another shot, while the pessimist says to shell out the extra $10-15 and splurge on Jun I. Given the current state of affairs, the optimist may win this one.

All that being said, the greatest indicator that we are indeed in a crisis of epic proportions has been the decline of my go-to casual sushi restaurant Bishoku. The magic of Bishoku always lay in its affordable prices and homey atmosphere; the waitresses remembered your order, the chefs would cater to your whims (I want avocado in my spicy salmon roll and no tempura in the kamikaze kind of thing), and you could sit back, relax, and be out the door in time for the puck to drop at the neighboring Bell Centre. Of course the sushi was always tiptop and the apps and mains delicious, albeit uninventive. Bishoku’s lunch specials are also a force to be reckoned with – for $15 (taxes and tip included) you can get 12 pieces of maki, 1 hand-roll, soup, salad and dessert. While the specials still exist, a change in ownership and sushi chef has led to slow, unprofessional service, and the food, while still good, has been slightly off. The miso soup was simply too salty, and the rolls a little too mushy. I have been a regular at Bishoku since 2003, but my two experiences there this past July left me with a bad taste in my mouth (no pun intended).

Bishoku lunch special (Maki Combo B)

Yet more proof these times are beleaguered, was a recent visit to Tokyo Sushi Bar in Old Montreal. Never mind that every roll seemed to have showered in tempura flakes, what passed for raw fish (could’ve been a stale jelly bean) surely predated Montreal’s sushi craze – in the ‘90’s.  

More a take-out place than a restaurant, don’t get me started on the travesty that is the Sushi Shop chain. Suffice to say it took nearly breaking a tooth on an avocado for me to never step foot in there again. Oh, and how come every roll tastes so sweet?

The good news (it does exist!) is after being closed for renovations, 5 Saisons Sushi has reopened. A BYOW, I wrote this place up for Val’s Bites almost two years ago, and every time I’ve been back since, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the bang for buck ratio. Also, my parents’ buddies at La Mer Fish Market, have been touting the virtues of Bistro Isakaya, a no frills Japanese spot on Parc Ave. The chef/owner is from Japan, and they know first-hand that he only buys the best stuff. It’s on my to-try list, along with Ginger, Sushi Yu Mi, Oishi Sushi and Kaizen (might be too $$). Somewhat apprehensive, I’ve heard good things about all the aforementioned restos from foodies I trust. Apparently Ginger is quite the “scene”, a.k.a. I have to do my hair before going. I’ll also return to Bishoku (fingers crossed), 5 Saisons and Shodan. I suppose I’m more of an optimist than anticipated. Before Montreal Sushi Crisis Part II is posted, I suggest you start saving and treat yourself, or someone you really like with a meal at Jun I. And don't forget to comment and suggest places for me to try! 

Red Line roll at 5 Saisons with red tuna, mango, tobiko, fried onion and crab stick in soya bean leaf.