Friday 4 November 2011

Val, where do I go for a non "touristy" meal in Italy?

Aside from my current home, Montreal, and my future home, New York, there's one other place that's near to my heart and that's Italia. I haven't frequented all parts of Italy – not even close, but I've been fortunate enough to visit and revisit this country countless times and with every trip I fall deeper and deeper in love. A sojourn in Italy is an exercise in pure hedonism – food included. I think part of the reason food in these parts tastes so good is because Italians enjoy such a symbiotic relationship with eating. Their passion makes everything that much more delectable, not to mention the country is geographically blessed. However, this doesn't mean you can't eat badly in Italy – you sure as hell can and it's the worst feeling because life's too short to eat badly – and in Italy of all places. I'd like to save you the heartache by listing five of my favourite  restaurants in five Italian cities that are both authentic and AMAZINGGGG. Sicily, where I traveled to this past summer isn't mentioned because this culinary paradise is getting a post of its own very soon. Buon appetito!

1. Boccanegra (Florence)
Florence's claim to fame, besides Michelangelo's David and the Galleria Uffizi of course, is the Florentine T-bone steak a.k.a. "fiorentina". At Boccanegra, a rustic-chic restaurant off the beaten path, the main draw is the "fiortentina", whose succulent taste remains engraved in my memory even three years later. Talk about well done.

2. Quattro Mori (Milan)
My dad's discerning Milanese business associate took us here when we visited two summers ago, so Quattro Mori has earned the "local" seal of approval. And after devouring their famous seafood dishes – it earned this blogger's approval too.

3. Ristorante da Dora (Naples)
Located on a narrow residential street replete with laundry hanging off balconies and old men playing cards, Dora's surroundings are about as stereotypical old-school Italia as they come. Once inside, things don't get any less cliche; from the photos of celebrities on the walls (Georgio Armani, Cher etc.), to the restaurant's guitarist, who is sometimes joined by Dora herself; a woman whose voice can easily be mistaken for Pavarotti's. All the above add an ineffable zest to the dining experience, although rest assured, the food needs no accouterments. Dora's seafood is hands down the BEST I've ever eaten. Whether you opt for a local white fish, baby squid or their speciality: spaghetti con vongole (clams), you'll enter a state of pure unadulterated bliss.

Spaghetti con vongole at Ristorante da Dora

Interior of Ristorante da Dora 
4. Osteria Bottega Montecitorio (Rome)
I'm not sure when it happened, but the food in Rome's "touristy" parts has become, well, "touristy", and in the worst possible way. My theory is some time ago the Romans decided tourists will come no matter what (hello Colosseum), so why bother trying to serve 'em delicious food. Makes sense no? Luckily, a search for a pharmacy led my parents and me to Bottega Montecitorio. We were immediately intrigued by its modern decor – a rarity in Rome. The food was also quite modern, but not in an obnoxious look at us we're hip kind of way. A Roman classic, egg pasta with Parmesan and pepper was scrumptious and perfectly al dente, while a salad with avocado and grilled prawns was heavenly on a pipping hot summer day. I've eaten here twice – two years apart and have been nothing but pleased. When we realized this eatery is located right next to the Italian parliament, we weren't surprised either, if anyone is eating non "touristy" food in Rome – it's the politicians.

A Roman Classic – egg pasta with Parmesan cheese and pepper at Bottega Montecitorio
5. Restaurant Santa Caterina (Santa Caterina Hotel, Amalfi)
When a restaurant is situated in a five star hotel with views of the idyllic Amalfi Coast, the food really doesn't have to be good, but the thing is, at Santa Caterina it's really, really good. The menu is small and the prices are steep, but you won't regret a dime when you're savouring their pumpkin risotto while live music plays in back and a fleet of professional waiters cater to your every need so you can sit back, relax, and take in Amalif's beauty. Too fancy for ya? Visit the hotel during lunch and try a paper-thin pizza or a plate of mixed fried fish straight from the Mediterranean that's sprawled right before your eyes.

The view from Hotel Santa Caterina's restaurant. Wow is right.
Mixed fried fish for lunch at Restaurant Santa Caterina

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